Vegan Frijoles Borrachos (Drunken Beans)
with Pico de Gallo Salsa
by Shannon Joyner, Garden Companion Editor
Fall in Northern California means hot days
and cool nights, interspersed with gentle
rainstorms reminding us that winter is
on its way. The signs of a changing season—the
scent of those first rainstorms, when the air
is still warm enough to allow plants to release
their volatile oils, the flocks of geese calling to
each other as they fly south to winter nesting
grounds—bring a feeling of joy and expectation.
And it’s finally time for soup again! After a long
day of outdoor projects before the rain blew
in this evening, I’m exhausted. I don’t want to
cook, but I’m longing for a warm, nourishing
bowl of something delicious. My version of the
traditional Mexican dish Frijoles Borrachos (drunken beans, inspired by rachelcooks.com/
frijoles-borrachos) is quick, brothy, gently spicy,
and packed full of protein. Instead of bacon,
this vegan version uses smoked paprika and
vegetable bouillon to provide rich umami flavor.
Served with Pico de Gallo (“beak of the rooster”
aka salsa fresca), this is fast comfort food that is
good for body and soul. You can make it without
beer if you prefer: just add additional broth and
adjust the seasoning, and maybe add a few drops
of bitters to mimic the taste of hops. I used
canned beans and tomatoes because I was in a hurry, but dried
beans will absolutely work if you plan ahead, soaking them
overnight; use 1 cup of dried beans, increase
cooking liquid by 2.5 cups, adjust seasoning, and
simmer, covered, until tender, about 2.5 hours, stirring occasionally. You can also ~2 cups of roasted, peeled and diced fresh or frozen homegrown tomatoes in place of the canned version.
Ingredients (~4-5 servings)
2 15-oz cans of pinto beans, drained
2 T olive oil
1 cup finely diced onion
2 T chopped pickled jalapenos and 1 T of
their juice (adjust spiciness to taste)
1 T minced garlic
1.5 cups dark beer
1/2 cup vegetable broth or water
1 15-oz can diced fire-roasted tomatoes
1 vegetable bouillon cube
1 T each brown sugar and molasses
1 tsp each dried Mexican oregano, ancho
chili powder, salt, and ground cumin
½ tsp each onion powder, ground coriander,
and smoked paprika
¼ tsp ground black pepper
1 bay leaf
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
In a large pot over medium heat, heat olive oil
until it shimmers, and sauté the onion until
softened, about 5 minutes, stirring frequently.
Add garlic, pickled jalapenos, and spices and
cook, stirring, for 1 minute or until fragrant.
Add tomato, beer, broth, bouillon cube, brown
sugar, molasses, and salt. Stir, scraping any
brown bits off the bottom of the pot.
Add beans, stir to combine, and bring to a boil.
Reduce heat to low, partially cover pan, and
simmer gently for ~½ hour or until the liquid
has reduced a bit, but the beans are still fairly
soupy, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat,
stir in the lime juice, and taste for seasoning.
Serve in bowls, topped with pico de gallo and
sour cream, with warm tortillas on the side (or
over polenta!). Keeps in the refrigerator for up
to 4 days, or in the freezer for up to 3 months.
Reheat over low heat, stirring often.
Pico de Gallo
1 cup each chopped fresh cilantro, finely
diced onion, and finely diced tomato
1 T chopped pickled jalapenos
1 T olive oil
1/4 tsp salt, to taste
Juice of 1 lime
Mix all ingredients in non-reactive bowl, and
taste for seasoning. Best served the day it’s
made, but will keep for a day covered in the
refrigerator.
♥
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